Brimham Rocks – a surreal natural landscape in North Yorkshire

Brimham Rocks are an amazing and unique set of rock formations in various strange shapes, covering 50 acres. A day out here is ideal for climbers and the site, owned by the National Trust, is a natural playground for children. There is a maze of paths through this stunning surreal landscape in Nidderdale, near Pateley Bridge and Harrogate, and wide views over the wild moorland. The region is part of the Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

How the rock formations occurred

About 320 million years ago a huge river brought sand and grit from granite mountains in northern Scotland and Norway pounding through half of Yorkshire. Layers of this sand and grit formed the millstone grit, a form of sandstone. It is this eroded sandstone which forms Brimham Rocks. The erosion occurred by the actions of water, glaciation and wind during and after the last ice age about 8-10,000 years ago.

The rocks, which rise to a height of about 30 metres, are cross bedded, which was caused by the river channel’s uneven floor, resulting in the layering being inclined in the direction of the water current. Sand blasting at ground level wore many of the rocks into top heavy shapes, and some of the rocks have been given names such as the Dancing Bear, the Boat, The Idol and the Sphinx.

Rambling, climbing and picnics

The area is an ideal spot for a picnic as well as rambling and climbing, though climbing is advisable only if you have the necessary skills and equipment. Otherwise, you can simply wander through the strange and wonderful scenery and take photographs. The landscape changes with the seasons, with variations such as the heather in September and ripe bilberries in August.

TV and video setting

The rocks have featured in the Bee Gees video, You Win Again, as well as series 6 of Knightmare and the children’s TV show, Roger and the Rottentrolls.

Visiting

Brimham Rocks are National Trust property. Entry is free, though car parking charges apply for non-National Trust members, and the site is open all year from 8 am till dusk. Dogs are allowed (but on leashes on moorland from April to June).

Accommodation

For those wishing to stay in the region, nearby are the pet-friendly Brimham Rocks Cottages, 4-star self-catering cottages with views of the rocks. These are cosy and luxurious converted farm buildings with wooden floors and original oak beams but modern facilities.

Nidderdale, a Lesser Known Yorkshire Jewel

In terms of visitors, it suffers from proximity to more illustrious neighbours, Harrogate, Knaresborough, Wharfedale, Ilkley Moor. To the north-west is the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, while to the east lies the North York Moors National Park. Nidderdale’s beauties are quieter and on a smaller scale, but they are many and varied. Most could be seen in a day. Yet even after several visits, one would be aware that there were secrets still to be discovered.

Outdoor Activities at Bewerley Park

The AONB Authority operates from offices in Pateley Bridge. In conjunction with Bewerley Park Outdoor Education Centre, situated in the same town, this small but vibrant body has organised a programme of short-break activity holidays that offer the visitor something different.

From heritage weekends at Fountains Abbey to rock climbing at Brimham, these cover a huge spectrum of interest, including canoeing, sailing, horse riding, caving, bird watching, gardening and photography. Visitors may take part as individuals or as members of a group. Those who prefer a less structured approach, or wish to go their own way will find a great deal to interest, and perhaps surprise them.

Brimham Rocks and Fountains Abbey

Brimham Rocks are relics of an ancient sea that have been sculpted by centuries of wind blasting, into piled up pillows of gritstone, which poke their heads high above the bracken and birch forest. A few miles to the east are the more tranquil ruins of Fountains Abbey. Brimham is mentioned in the Domesday Book. Fountains Abbey was founded in 1132 by Cistercian monks, and in 1986, became the first site in Yorkshire to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Industrial Archeology and the Wildlife of Nidderdale

The valley and surrounding moors are ideal for walking, and leaflets are available describing some of the walks. Many of these are themed around the industrial archaeology of Nidderdale, and vary in length from three to nine miles. The industrial history of Nidderdale reaches back to Roman times. Lead mining and smelting were carried out for many centuries, and limestone quarrying is still undertaken today.

An abundance of wildlife thrives along the river banks and in the broad-leaved woodlands. This includes otters, water voles, kingfishers and dippers. Grouse nest on the moorland fringes. Prey is sufficiently plentiful to support populations of raptors such as buzzard, kestrel and peregrine. Even kites and juvenile eagles can sometimes be seen here. Natural England has designated ten Sites of Special Scientific Interest around the dale.

Upstream of Pately Bridge, the limestone rocks of the valley floor support a rich, colourful flora, which contrasts sharply with the bleak, somewhat monochrome beauty of the high gritstone moors. They also give access to numerous cave systems that can be explored by potholers.

Reservoirs and the Ruins at Scar House

The ten reservoirs of Nidderdale provide habitats and wintering sites for migrating wildfowl such as teal and widgeon. Waders like redshank feed on the invertebrates to be found in the mud, while several breeds of geese stalk the margins.

At the northern edge of the AONB is Scar House Reservoir, beside which lie the ruins of the temporary village, built in the 1930s to house the families of the dam construction workers. Despite its transient nature, the village contained a cinema, shops and a concert hall.

There is accommodation in the dale to suit all tastes, whether one takes part in a structured break or travels independently. This ranges from dormitories at Bewerley Park, to self-catering facilities in local cottages or barns, to approved Bed and Breakfast in guest houses or hotels.