Cephalonia: More than just a story

Since Captain Corelli’s Mandolin became a runaway success, tourists have flocked to the small Greek Island of Cephalonia, to walk in the footsteps of its loveable characters, such as Pelagia and Captain Corelli.

Louis de Bernieres, the author of the novel, describes the Island as though it were a character itself. He tells of its beauty, its brilliance, the colours, the fragrances and its ability to make visitors fall in love with it.

The Corelli Trail

All over the Island there are reminders of the novel, such as a cafe chain named, Corelli’s Cafe Bar. Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, which was published in1993 and adapted to a film in 2001, has now become a tourist industry. Visitors to Cephalonia have the opportunity to visit the locations that were used for filming, with many hotels boasting that the stars stayed there for the duration of the film shoot.

Leaving Captain Corelli Behind

Away from the tourist trail, which follows traces of Pelagia and Captain Corelli all over the Island, Cephalonia has lots to offer. The roads cut high through cliffs, with scary drops at the roadside, olive groves appear all over, and goats skip precariously on the cliff sides above sparkling blue seas.

Little villages such as Agia Efimia, Fiscardo, and Assos nestle into the landscape and make a refreshing break from the larger, more tourist-filled towns of Scala and Sami, which are making the most of their claim to fame.

The capital of Argostoli is well worth a visit. It has a great shopping district and the streets shine white in the sun. It is amazingly clean in comparison to the UK and along the harbour it is possible to see turtles gliding in the calm waters.

Myrtos Beach curves into the headland in the shape of a horsehoe and the blue seas take visitors breath away while the white sands gleam with cleanliness. It is a difficult approach if driving – the roads are narrow and the drops are treacherous – but it is worth it. The sea gets deep quite quickly, but after the initial shock it is warm and calm for swimming and very safe.

Driving on from Myrtos Beach a stop at the village of Assos is a must. Again it is a steep drive to reach the village. With gently lapping sea, small, friendly tavernas and a calm that doesn’t exist in the UK, it is a great place to spend the afternoon, or even a day. There are also reminders of the 1953 Earthquake throughout Assos, with derelict buildings and crumbling remains intertwined with fragrant, pink flowers.

Fiscardo, a fishing port, is always bustling. It is a joy to sit at a waterfront restaurant and order fresh food and watch the sailing boats pass by, maybe even enjoy a glass of the Cephalonian speciality Robola, if Ouzo isn’t that tempting.

Cephalonia’s Attractions

From Agia Efimia there are daily sailing trips which leave early in the morning to go to Ithaca and return in the evening. Ithaca, famous for Homer’s story of Odysseus, is small and quiet. There are no large tourist resorts and it is a great place to relax or even do some shopping in the capital of Vathi, which specialises in Lace making.

Also from Agia Efimia, boats can be hired and taken out for the day to travel around the coastline. It is a great way to explore the towering cliffs and also stop for a break on one of the small – personal – bays that litter the shoreline.

Mellisani Underground Lake is beautiful. Sea water flows into a cave to create the lake and inside the water is an array of blues and greens. Knowledgeable locals take visitors onto the lake in boats, telling stories and impressing with facts.

Not far from Mellisani Lake there is Drogarati Cave, which visitors can explore on their own without a tour guide. The cave is filled with impressive stalactites and stalagmites, which have been created over thousands of years. It is a popular attraction with narrow walkways that lead to a larger opening with a very high roof.

A Cephalonian Love Story

After so much exertion, from driving heart-stopping mountain roads, to exploring caves, and being overwhelmed by underground lakes, swimming in the sea, hiring a boat, or shopping, Cephalonia offers some of the best hospitality around.

With a carafe of Cephalonian wine and perhaps some saganaki (fried Cheese), kleftiko (slow roasted lamb), Dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), maybe even the speciality of Cephalonian Meat Pie, or just a simple Greek Salad, it is easy to unwind, soak up the evening sun and fall in love with Cephalonia, just as Louis De Bernieres and his famous characters did.